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It's Time. Now Let's Water the Right Way!
May 14, 2013 10:14 AM
With warm weather just around the corner, we must begin watering our landscape plants. Everyone likes to see a landscape that is watered just right so that trees and lawns grow beautifully. But here at LawnTech we see the extremes.... those who never get the water going and their landscapes dry up or those who over water constantly including down the curb gutter! We gladly provide information to simplify your watering for efficiency and cost-effectiveness.
In our area dry desert climate, irrigation needs for landscapes amounts to approximately 2 inches of water per week during summer seasonal months. Usually that translates into three waterings of 3/4 inch to 1 inch of water per week. Large rotating heads usually require one hour of operation time to achieve that amount. Smaller stationary sprinkler heads require about half that operational time to get the same amount of water. One inch of watering in our soils will soak about 6 inches deep which meets the needs of lawn, trees and shrubs.
Most sprinkler controllers offer features that will fit most any particular situation but exact programming can get complicated. That's where we can help. We provide free instructional tools to everyone and free consultation to our customers on fine-tuning sprinkler system programming for maximum efficiency. We teach you the advanced concepts so that you can successfully water your landscape efficiently in Southeastern Idaho.
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Strong Winds ...... Is this pretty bad for my trees?
May 1, 2013 08:04 AM
Wow!! Sometimes these spring windstorms can really be humdingers! And along with it comes some degree of worry about the effect to our trees and other landscape plants. Of course large trees are always a concern as to whether they can sustain wind speeds of over 60 miles an hour. This is particularly true of the conifers whose foliage act as sails in windstorms such as this one. We encounter many people who worry enough to call us the day after a storm to remove trees that they worry pose a hazard to people and/or property.
So are these concerns valid? There are certain conditions that do pose a bigger concern for trees to fail and come down. These can include very wet soil from spring rains, wind from a direction other than our prevailing southwest winds. But most trees have a built in buffering mechanism from wins up to about 60 to 65 miles an hour. In fact some degree of wind actually can help strengthen the lower part of the trunk over time.
As an arborist, I find that other structural problems are the primary cause of tree failure and the wind is the secondary but final step that occurs in that failure. It is important to check carefully the root crown or flare of the tree at the base of the trunk for proper development. If the tree has been proper be planted many years earlier, a wide flare or buttress has developed all around the base of the tree. This is a sign of good health. If the tree comes straight out of the ground without a flare, this would be a sign of root crown problems just beneath the soil which potentially can be very serious from a structural point of view. Of course examination of the main trunk of the tree is also a good idea. Co-dominant stems or in other words a split double trunk can be "double" trouble. There can be other potential structural issues as well but hazards are mostly determined by potential risk to people or property. Trees within close range of play areas, walk areas, homes or other valuable property should receive some scrutiny for structural integrity.
Naturally, most people are not trained to determine potential hazards with trees so it is important at times to get an expert opinion. Professional arborists with training and experience in hazard assessment are recommended. The LawnTech has several staff members who are ISA Certified Arborists that can help determine hazard risk of any tree. If you live outside Southeastern Idaho, contact the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) or refer to their website isa-arbor.com to find a qualified arborist in your area.
As a final note, windstorms can be very dehydrating for your plants and trees. When things of calm down, it would be good to get all your plants deep soaked. Water requirements are significant as trees are trying to leaf out and begin growing. Now... let's get this spring going!
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Nuisance Fruit
Mar 21, 2013 11:04 AM
Nuisance Fruit: An Alternative To A Sticky Situation
Tired of dealing with the mess a fruit producing tree can cause?
There is an answer to your headache and its called a Nuisance Fruit Prevention Treatmet.
The nuisance fruit treatment is a specialized treatment in the early spring before blooming, and fruit productions starts. It is a growth regulator treatment that stops production of nuisance fruit and seeds. In our trials for this treatment, it has proven to be about 90% effective in preventing undesired nuisance fruit.
The most important thing to remember about this treatment is TIMING!
It must be done 2-4 weeks prior to flower buds (pinhead size or smaller) for optimum results.
Common Trees that Produce Nuisance Fruit are as listed:
- Crab Apple
- Apple (if you do not plan to harvest)
- Plum (if you do not plan to harvest)
- Honeylocust
- Aspens
- Chokecherry
- Ash
- Siberian Elm
- Eastern Cottonwood
- Lombardy PoplarLindens
While treatment on larger trees is an option, the cost for larger trees is higher because more materials are required for adequate coverage and control. This is something to keep in mind if you are considering treatment for lager trees such as cottonwoods or poplars. If you are curious about what the cost of this treatment would be, just give us a call. Remember, if you are looking to control your nuisance fruit this coming season, you will need to call as soon as possible to ensure proper timing of the treatment.
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A Plug for Aeration
Mar 11, 2013 12:34 PM
A Plug on Aeration
Core aeration is the removal of quarter sized plugs of soil reaching 2-3 inches deep and 4 inches apart. The plugs are used for top dressing are absorbed back into the lawn after a few rainfalls.
Benefits
Improved air exchange between the soil and atmosphere
Enhanced water intake- Loosing compacted reduces water run-off by more than 50%.
Improved fertilizer uptake and use
Stronger grass roots
Reduce soil compaction
Enhanced heat and drought stress tolerance
Improved resiliency and cushioning
Enhanced thatch breakdown
Silty clay loam soils in the flood plain areas of the upper Snake River Valley are ideal for aerations in eastern Idaho areas. We recommend aerating annually, in the spring.
Give us a call to find out if an aeration would be beneficial for your lawn!
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Spring Is In The Air!
Feb 5, 2013 08:53 AM
Spring Is In The Air: Tips to Prepare
Tip #1: Assess your lawn damage.
The first thing you should do is to take a walk round your lawn and survey the effects the winter had on your property. If you have a dog, you may have to clean up their winter "activity". There is no quick cure for dog damage except lots of water to wash the salts from the urine into the soil. In most cases, the grass will recover.
Tip #2: Check your grass for Snow Mold.
Check your grass for matted patches that could signal the development of Snow Mold. This lawn disease glues the grass blades together, which may inhibit the new grass from growing through the mat. A light raking to break up the matted grass will remedy this situation. If the grass was left too long last fall, an early mowing at 1 1/2 to 2” is advisable.
Tip #3: Clean up and check any weed trimmers or other equipment that you might have.
Most people wait until they're about to start cutting their grass to check out their equipment, but waiting can mean that you won't be as thorough with your checks and you can end up with uneven cuts or unnecessary wear and tear on your lawnmower and other equipment. Properly sharpened lawnmower blades are important to ensure healthy cuts on the grass throughout the growing season.
Tip #4: Check the remaining aspects of your landscape for damage, growth progress and needed improvements.
Check your woody landscape plants for injury — particularly the evergreens. Do not be too alarmed if you do not see new growth. Wait until the buds have opened before removing any dead branches, unless they are broken. Take the same "wait and see" approach with perennial plants. Remove any mulch that was placed there to protect them. Some plants take a longer time to come out of winter dormancy than others do. If scale insects or tent caterpillars bothered your landscape plants last year, then you should consider spraying with dormant oil before the buds open. This material will smother the egg cases or over-wintering adults.
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A Hideous Practice - Tree Topping
Feb 4, 2013 03:38 PM
A Hideous Practice
There is a hideous practice that has been going on for decades and the entire arborist community is trying to stop it. This sad and damaging trend is the negligent topping of trees! Topping can be referred to as hat racking, stubbing off, shearing or murder. The official definition as put forth by the International Society of Arboriculture is:
“The reduction of a tree’s size using heading cuts that shorten limbs or branches back to a pre-determined crown limit. Topping is not considered an acceptable pruning practice.”
The reason this practice can be referred to as murder is that once it has been done it marks the beginning of the end for that tree. It starts with starvation. If we think of pruning as being a healthy diet for a tree, topping it would equate to starvation. This makes sense because the leaves that make up the trees canopy are the food factories that keep the tree running. When too much of that canopy is removed the trees ability to produce food is also removed. As soon as this happens the tree biologically panics and stimulates a rush of new growth that is often referred to as water sprouts or suckers.
Unfortunately this new growth is only partially attached to the older wood. This makes the new growth substantially weaker than what was there previously. Add in the trees need to get the canopy back to its original size and you’ve got a math problem. In a few short years those weak branches are just as tall as the ones you had cut back and there are more of them! As those years have progressed the stubs that were left and the stress cracks it produced have opened up a pathway for pathogens and insects to enter the main branches and even trunk wood. These things can go unseen for years while they attack a starving and handicapped tree until it finally fails.
Economically the topping of trees is more costly than correctly pruning or simply removing them. It costs a little more up
front to have a certified arborist do the work correctly but it will need to be done about a third as often and will not leave you with a liability in the backyard or along the street that will have to be removed later on. If the tree is absolutely too large for you than its better to look at removal and replacement with a correctly sized tree than reduction. The main key to avoid even thinking of topping as an option is to Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place!!!
front to have a certified arborist do the work correctly but it will need to be done about a third as often and will not leave you with a liability in the backyard or along the street that will have to be removed later on. If the tree is absolutely too large for you than its better to look at removal and replacement with a correctly sized tree than reduction. The main key to avoid even thinking of topping as an option is to Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place!!! Cities all over the country including the city of Idaho Falls have set it out in their city ordinances that only those who at least consult with a Certified Arborist and receive a city permit are allowed to work on specified city trees. They have implemented the ruling to preserve the beauty and value well maintained trees provide to a thriving location by having the work done to follow the Ansi A300 national standard. City trees include the trees in parks and between most curb strips and sidewalks. If you would like to read the exact ordinances you will find it by first clicking here and then going to Title 8 Chapter 9.
The Ansi A300 standards are only available through purchase online: one of the sites that offers them is the TCIA website linked here.
By Kalie Larkin PN-7270A
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Ewe..... a Hobo Spider
Jan 28, 2013 10:04 AM
Male 
Female
What is a Hobo spider? This spider was introduced to the Pacific Northwest from Europe. It was given a common name “aggressive house spider”, which has now been changed back to its original name. The hobo spider is of importance because of its ability to cause necrotic spider bites similar to those of the brown recluse.
The hobo spider is a member of the funnel-web spider family. They are long-legged, swift-running spiders and they build funnel or tube like webs. The hobo spiders prefer to utilize habitats that have holes, cracks, or other areas which help support their funnel-like webs. Common habitats include rocks retaining walls, crack in soil or concrete, window wells, and in wood stacks. Indoors the hobo spiders can be found in ground-floor levels like basements because hobo’s are poor climbers.
The hobo spiders are most commonly encountered in June through September when the males wander in search for females. Females tend to stay in their webs and are not usually found running about. Males seek for mates from late June to October with most dying before October. The first eggs are laid about mid-September with one to four eggs sacs produced. Cold temperatures eventually terminate the production of eggs by the females.
The eggs hatch in the spring as the temperatures start to warm up. The immature spiders develop for the next year, reaching maturity after the following spring. Males generally have a more toxic bite than the females, while immature seem to cause the most serious bites. The bite of the hobo spider is relatively painless and is reported to fell like a pin prick. If you suspect you have been bitten by an hobo spider, you should seek medical attention immediately.
Many individuals do not like having spiders around their homes so they choose to chemically control them with residual insecticides which should be used to provide a lasting effect. For your safety, Always make sure to read all labels and follow their instruction or hire a professional pest control company.
Tecia Grover, PN-7238A
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Conifer will soon be under attack!
Jan 23, 2013 12:18 PM
Conifers will soon be under attack!
Pine and spruce trees are valuable assets to any southeast Idaho’s landscape. They are very adaptable to soils and grow very well here in southeast Idaho. Over the past few years these trees have been plagued by a small invader, pine needle scale. This scale is actually an insect and are easily identified because they are white and found on the needles. In early spring the females lay eggs under their protective wax covering. In our area early summer the eggs hatch and the new generation begin looking for a place to start feeding. When they have a new feeding site established, usually on the new growth of the tree, they “settle” quickly form a new waxy covering that protects them as they feed.
The scale insects feed on the needles of the conifers by sucking plant juices and, because of this, the needles may turn yellow and eventually fall off the tree. If heavy infestation continues, twigs and branches can die.
Young crawlers can be spread by the wind and also transported by birds and other animals. Even if mature trees branches touch, they can crawl over and infest new conifers.
What can you do to help stop the spread of this insect? Early detection and ultimate prevention will limit the extent of the infestation and damaging effects. You can have your trees chemically treated at the correct timing. Use an insecticide to kill the crawlers in the early summer before they have a can create their wax covering. There are studies out that if you also use an insect growth regulator and the insecticide, you can kill both the new and the old scale on the trees.
Tecia Grover, PN-7238A
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Hear A Crunch This Morning
Jan 23, 2013 09:45 AM
Hear a Crunch this Morning?
We have all been feeling the brisk, if not down right freezing, cold mornings around here. While most of our lawns are covered in snow, there are still a couple of lawns with grass peeking out. Try not to walk on your lawn if it is frozen, it can cause damage that will show up sooner than you might think!
The dew that settles in the morning on the grass can be quite beautiful, but when it freezes it puts your grass in a vulnerable state. It is not only frozen on the outside of the blade, but the tissues of the plant are frozen and brittle. When you walk on this brittle grass it causes damage that can not be reversed. Often times you will see the damage with in 12-48 hours in the form of darkening. Eventually the grass will die and turn brown. This can also leave a weakened lawn that may be more susceptible to weed germination.
Now don’t panic if you have been walking on your frozen lawn. The good news is that grass is resilient, and with a good fertilizer and weed control program in place, you can have that thick and lush lawn, even if your lawn took a couple of blows from the winter. Remember though, if you hear a crunch, or see ice on those beautiful blades, try to stay off the lawn!
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Can you hear me now?
Jan 15, 2013 03:15 PM
Can you hear me now?
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Communication is as old as man himself. Unfortunately, miscommunication has been around just as long. We have seen amazing advances in the methods we use to communicate. We have gone from drums and runners, to and telegraph and pony express, to cell phones and emails. Yet with all the amazing technology we have as methods of communication, if we don’t learn how to communicate effectively we still have the problem of miscommunication.
In our service call center at LawnTech, we understand the need to communicate clearly and effectively. Nearly all of the problems our customers have come from some kind of miscommunication. At times we deal with lack of information, sometimes it is misinformation. Other times we fail to effectively communicate what we intend to say. There are times we don’t quite understand what our customers are trying to tell us and there are also times when our customers don’t give us the information we need to help them. Our goal is to eliminate all miscommunication when dealing with you, our customers. This is a lofty goal and will take some effort from both our call center personnel and our customers.
One of the tools that we have developed to help our customers is our website, www.golawntech.com. We are continually updating and improving our website to make it easier for our customers to get information and also to communicate with us more effectively. In addition to access to a wealth of helpful information, our website also has links to request free estimates, to request services, to pay your bill online and to contact us for problem resolution or to make comments. Having discovered our golawntech.com, we encourage you to explore and learn. Hopefully you will find answers to most of your yard care questions and also help us communicate more effectively with you. If you have any questions, please let us know.
For those of you who still like to use the telephone, we have a full staff to answer phones for scheduling and problem resolution. We also have several certified arborists to answer your tree and lawn care questions. In everything we do, we strive to keep our customers well-informed and happy.
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