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Animals: Feeding on our landscapes
Jan 30, 2012 02:26 PM
As homeowners, we try to create a landscape that we can spend time with and enjoy. A well-kept landscape may also attract unwanted animals which feed on our shrubs and trees. Some of the most common pests are voles (see blog on voles), squirrels, rabbits, deer, and porcupines.
Squirrels
These animals damage ornamental plants because they regularly gnaw, clip stems and branches, consume buds, and strip bark from trees. Your lawn can be littered with large numbers of twigs that have been nipped off of the trees. To help protect your trees and shrubs from feeding, encircling the tree with a 2-foot- wide collar of metal located 6" off ground should help. You can trap them and take them 5 miles away from the area but where they may cause problems for someone else. Shooting them is an effective method of immediate eliminating a problem ((limited to those so inclined and where legal).
Rabbits
During the fall and winter months, rabbits damage and kill valuable woody plants by gnawing bark or clipping off branches, stems, and buds. When snow covers the ground for a long time they often severely damage some plants by clipping branches off at snow height and larger trees and shrubs might be completely girdled. Damage can be identified by the characteristic appearance of gnawing on older woody growth and the clean-cut angled clipping of young stems. To protect plants, put up a fence, which does not have to be tall or especially sturdy ( the bottom tight to the ground or buried a few inches is sufficient). You can trap, as long the population is not too dense. Shooting is a quick, easy and effective method of control (again where permitted).
Deer
Deer are important game animals with the additional aesthetic value to landowners and vacationers. Over the past decade, deer have become a significant pest. They damage a variety of trees and ornamental plantings. Young trees and shrubs are also damaged when deer rub their antlers on trunks and limbs. A few twigs nibbled on a tree or shrub during the winter by deer will result in little more than a bushier plant or in heavy feeding can cause great plant disfiguration. Feeding damage usually reveals leaves that have jagged or torn surface on twigs or stems. Fences used tp protect trees should be at least 8 feet high and be close to the ground because deer may also slink under a fence. It is possible to spray a thiram-based spray, which make the plants taste bad to the deer. Poisoning deer with any product for any reason is illegal and is unlikely to be tolerated by the public.
Porcupine
Porcupine's teeth grow constantly therefore, they have a great need to gnaw in order to keep their teeth ground to a short enough length. They eat plants, inner tree bark, leaves and twigs. They prefer aspen, willow, cottonwood and ponderosa pine. Their chewing can expose tree roots, girdle and clip trees. Porcupines can climb trees and they will clip branches or even the trunk of the tree to eat them. Winter is often the worst time for porcupine tree damage. Reduce tree damage by banding individual trees with a 2-3" high metal cylinder placed 3’ off the ground to prevent porcupines from climbing. Repellents with capsaisin base chemicals can discourage gnawing on objects. Trapping is an excellent control method and a simple raccoon trap is sufficient.
Pest management is a constant battle for the homeowners. New products are always becoming available don’t give up if one method of control doesn’t work. Keep fighting for the landscape of your dreams.
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Plant Health Care: Pruning Practices
Jan 30, 2012 01:45 PM
Many things have changed over the last 25 years in caring for trees. The focus has changed from an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) to more of a Plant Health Care (PHC) Management. Integrated Pest Management focuses more on the pest of the trees and symptoms than the overall health of the tree. Plant Health Care looks at every part of the tree from the soil it is planted in, planting techniques (see our blog on tree planting) to the canopy and development of leaves and the pests that feed on them.
With Plant Health Care, more focus on improving pruning practices has been established. These standards are recommended through the ANSI A300 Standards:
- Do not top trees anymore because it exposes the tree to decay and causes weak new shoot develop just below the cut.
- Recommend not to seal the pruning cuts because it interferes with the natural wound closure, which is part of tree "compartmentalization".
- Recommended to use a 3-step cut technique to remove large branches. To do this is to cut 1st under the branch, 2nd cut on top of the branch and an inch or two above the bottom cut which causes the branch to drop. The 3rd and final cut is performed near the connecting branch just outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk or larger branch.
- Flush cutting branches off with the trunk exposes the trunk to decay and creates a risk of the branch ripping the bark of the trunk or larger connecting branch.
As we study and understand more about trees, the techniques of caring for trees may change. Our main goals are promoting the total health care for your trees as they are a valuable asset to your landscape.
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Successful Tree Planting
Jun 13, 2011 01:29 PM
Time to Plant Trees!
With the arrival of spring, our thoughts turn to the outdoors and especially those landscaping projects that we've been planning. Maybe National Arbor Day inspires us to planting a tree in our yard. As an arborist, I sometimes cringe to think of how many trees that are planted are doomed to an early death just because a few basic principles were not followed during planting.
Planting Successfully
Most people would be surprised to hear that only 20% of plant problems and especially tree problems are due to insects or pests! So what about solving the other 80%? That comes from abiotic problems, not where a pathogen or insect is involved, but the whole planting environment. That has more to do with choosing the right plant and using the right procedures and providing the right soil conditions at planting. Properly mulching a plant or tree after planting is also critical for its success.
Choosing the Right Place
Planting the right plant in the right place may sound trivial but it is critical for a plant to thrive. Each plant prefers (and is genetically programmed based on its native habitat) a certain set of conditions for it to do well. Variables for a planting location can include sun or shade, hot or cool, high or low pH soil, wet or dry, soil volume, as well as height restrictions including city ordinances. Ignoring specific needs of a plant will likely prove futile.
Seeing the Root Crown
It is amazing to me how much of the time people have the impression that the deeper at tree is planted, the better it will do. I personally believe that well over 50% of trees that I observe are planted too deep and this includes those planted by professional landscapers. And the result will be a declining and eventually dying tree.
The root crown or root flare, that is the base of the tree where it flares out, is a very important spot to understand. This is where the trunk ends and the roots begin, and should be located about 1-2 inches above the soil level. When buying a balled and burlapped tree, this flare may be as much as 3- 4 inches down into the root ball. Finding the flare and properly placing it slightly above grade level (a little more in heavier soils) is vital. If the tree is established, the flare should be visible and if not, excavation of soil away from the tree is necessary to prevent root crown rot. We can provide much more detail about tree root crowns and avoiding root crown problems for anyone who requests it.
Benefits of Tree Mulching
One way to simulate a tree's native habitat is to cover as much of the root zone area as possible with organic mulch. Mulching depth should be a 2-4 inch layer of preferably organic material over the root zone. Benefits of this organic mulch is very significant and includes moisture retention, root temperature reduction, additional nutrients through decomposition, elimination of mower/trimmer contact, increased microbial and beneficial fungus activity, and numerous other positive effects. New methods of dying mulch products also provide an aesthetically pleasing look to mulched areas.
I am confident that your tree success will be increased dramatically by assuring these simple three things are covered when you plant. Who knows, your tree may just reach out and give you a hug for having done them!
Animals: Feeding on our landscapes
Squirrels
These animals damage ornamental plants because they regularly gnaw, clip stems and branches, consume buds, and strip bark from trees. Your lawn can be littered with large numbers of twigs that have been nipped off of the trees. To help protect your trees and shrubs from feeding, encircling the tree with a 2-foot- wide collar of metal located 6" off ground should help. You can trap them and take them 5 miles away from the area but where they may cause problems for someone else. Shooting them is an effective method of immediate eliminating a problem ((limited to those so inclined and where legal).
Rabbits
During the fall and winter months, rabbits damage and kill valuable woody plants by gnawing bark or clipping off branches, stems, and buds. When snow covers the ground for a long time they often severely damage some plants by clipping branches off at snow height and larger trees and shrubs might be completely girdled. Damage can be identified by the characteristic appearance of gnawing on older woody growth and the clean-cut angled clipping of young stems. To protect plants, put up a fence, which does not have to be tall or especially sturdy ( the bottom tight to the ground or buried a few inches is sufficient). You can trap, as long the population is not too dense. Shooting is a quick, easy and effective method of control (again where permitted).
Deer
Deer are important game animals with the additional aesthetic value to landowners and vacationers. Over the past decade, deer have become a significant pest. They damage a variety of trees and ornamental plantings. Young trees and shrubs are also damaged when deer rub their antlers on trunks and limbs. A few twigs nibbled on a tree or shrub during the winter by deer will result in little more than a bushier plant or in heavy feeding can cause great plant disfiguration. Feeding damage usually reveals leaves that have jagged or torn surface on twigs or stems. Fences used tp protect trees should be at least 8 feet high and be close to the ground because deer may also slink under a fence. It is possible to spray a thiram-based spray, which make the plants taste bad to the deer. Poisoning deer with any product for any reason is illegal and is unlikely to be tolerated by the public.
Porcupine's teeth grow constantly therefore, they have a great need to gnaw in order to keep their teeth ground to a short enough length. They eat plants, inner tree bark, leaves and twigs. They prefer aspen, willow, cottonwood and ponderosa pine. Their chewing can expose tree roots, girdle and clip trees. Porcupines can climb trees and they will clip branches or even the trunk of the tree to eat them. Winter is often the worst time for porcupine tree damage. Reduce tree damage by banding individual trees with a 2-3" high metal cylinder placed 3’ off the ground to prevent porcupines from climbing. Repellents with capsaisin base chemicals can discourage gnawing on objects. Trapping is an excellent control method and a simple raccoon trap is sufficient.
Pest management is a constant battle for the homeowners. New products are always becoming available don’t give up if one method of control doesn’t work. Keep fighting for the landscape of your dreams.
Plant Health Care: Pruning Practices
Many things have changed over the last 25 years in caring for trees. The focus has changed from an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) to more of a Plant Health Care (PHC) Management. Integrated Pest Management focuses more on the pest of the trees and symptoms than the overall health of the tree. Plant Health Care looks at every part of the tree from the soil it is planted in, planting techniques (see our blog on tree planting) to the canopy and development of leaves and the pests that feed on them.- Do not top trees anymore because it exposes the tree to decay and causes weak new shoot develop just below the cut.
- Recommend not to seal the pruning cuts because it interferes with the natural wound closure, which is part of tree "compartmentalization".
- Recommended to use a 3-step cut technique to remove large branches. To do this is to cut 1st under the branch, 2nd cut on top of the branch and an inch or two above the bottom cut which causes the branch to drop. The 3rd and final cut is performed near the connecting branch just outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk or larger branch.
- Flush cutting branches off with the trunk exposes the trunk to decay and creates a risk of the branch ripping the bark of the trunk or larger connecting branch.
Successful Tree Planting
Time to Plant Trees!
Planting Successfully
Most people would be surprised to hear that only 20% of plant problems and especially tree problems are due to insects or pests! So what about solving the other 80%? That comes from abiotic problems, not where a pathogen or insect is involved, but the whole planting environment. That has more to do with choosing the right plant and using the right procedures and providing the right soil conditions at planting. Properly mulching a plant or tree after planting is also critical for its success.
Choosing the Right Place
Planting the right plant in the right place may sound trivial but it is critical for a plant to thrive. Each plant prefers (and is genetically programmed based on its native habitat) a certain set of conditions for it to do well. Variables for a planting location can include sun or shade, hot or cool, high or low pH soil, wet or dry, soil volume, as well as height restrictions including city ordinances. Ignoring specific needs of a plant will likely prove futile.
Seeing the Root Crown
It is amazing to me how much of the time people have the impression that the deeper at tree is planted, the better it will do. I personally believe that well over 50% of trees that I observe are planted too deep and this includes those planted by professional landscapers. And the result will be a declining and eventually dying tree.
The root crown or root flare, that is the base of the tree where it flares out, is a very important spot to understand. This is where the trunk ends and the roots begin, and should be located about 1-2 inches above the soil level. When buying a balled and burlapped tree, this flare may be as much as 3- 4 inches down into the root ball. Finding the flare and properly placing it slightly above grade level (a little more in heavier soils) is vital. If the tree is established, the flare should be visible and if not, excavation of soil away from the tree is necessary to prevent root crown rot. We can provide much more detail about tree root crowns and avoiding root crown problems for anyone who requests it.
Benefits of Tree Mulching
One way to simulate a tree's native habitat is to cover as much of the root zone area as possible with organic mulch. Mulching depth should be a 2-4 inch layer of preferably organic material over the root zone. Benefits of this organic mulch is very significant and includes moisture retention, root temperature reduction, additional nutrients through decomposition, elimination of mower/trimmer contact, increased microbial and beneficial fungus activity, and numerous other positive effects. New methods of dying mulch products also provide an aesthetically pleasing look to mulched areas.
I am confident that your tree success will be increased dramatically by assuring these simple three things are covered when you plant. Who knows, your tree may just reach out and give you a hug for having done them!